Lease vs Buy Calculator
Find out whether leasing or buying a car makes more financial sense for you.
How to Use This Calculator
Formula:
Monthly Lease = [(Cap Cost − Residual) ÷ Term + (Cap Cost + Residual) × Money Factor] × (1 + Tax Rate) | Net Buy Cost = Total Outflow − Ending Vehicle Value
- Enter the shared Vehicle MSRP, your planned Down Payment, and your local Sales Tax Rate at the top of the calculator.
- In the Lease column, select the Lease Term (24, 36, or 48 months), enter the dealer's Money Factor (the tool converts it to an equivalent APR automatically via MF × 2,400), and input the Residual Value percentage, Cap Cost Reduction, mileage allowance, Acquisition Fee, and Disposition Fee.
- In the Buy column, choose your Loan Term (36 to 72 months), enter the Loan APR, select Years You'll Own It (3, 5, 7, or 10 years), and set realistic estimates for Annual Depreciation, Extra Insurance vs Lease, and out-of-warranty Annual Maintenance.
- Compare the Lease Monthly Payment against the Buy Monthly Payment, then check Buy Net Cost (after subtracting ending vehicle equity) versus Lease Total over the full ownership horizon.
- Expand the Year-by-Year Cost Breakdown table to pinpoint the exact year where accumulated vehicle equity pushes buying ahead of back-to-back leasing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Multiply the decimal money factor by 2,400 to get the equivalent annual percentage rate. For example, a money factor of 0.0018 equals 4.32% APR (0.0018 × 2,400), while 0.0029 equals 6.96% APR. The constant 2,400 comes from 12 monthly payments multiplied by 200, because lease finance charges apply to the sum of capitalized cost plus residual value rather than divided by two to find the average balance.
Any cash paid upfront as a capitalized cost reduction lowers your monthly lease payment, but you risk losing 100% of that money if the car is totaled or stolen early in the term. Gap insurance pays off the lender's difference between actual cash value and lease balance—it never refunds your down payment. Keep upfront cash near zero and hold those funds in a high-yield account instead.
For a standard 36-month, 12,000-mile-per-year lease, a residual value of 58% to 65% of MSRP is strong because you only pay for 35% to 42% of the vehicle's value over three years. Vehicles with sub-50% residuals force you to finance steep depreciation, inflating monthly lease payments even when the manufacturer advertises a low promotional money factor.
Buying typically overtakes leasing between Year 4 and Year 5. During the first 36 months, a buyer absorbs higher loan payments and steep early depreciation. Once a 60-month loan is paid off, however, the buyer enjoys payment-free driving in Years 6 through 10 while retaining a trade-in asset worth $9,000 to $15,000, whereas a serial lessee pays another acquisition fee and starts over.
Mainstream brands charge $0.15 to $0.25 per excess mile, while luxury marques often charge $0.30 per mile. Driving 16,000 miles annually on a 12,000-mile, 36-month contract leaves you 12,000 miles over the cap—triggering a $3,000 turn-in bill at $0.25 per mile, plus wear-and-tear charges for tires or bumper scuffs. High-mileage commuters almost always save money by purchasing.
Buy out your lease whenever the contract's fixed residual value is lower than the car's real-world retail market value. If your 36-month contract sets the residual buyout at $19,250 on a $35,000 crossover, and comparable 3-year-old models with your mileage sell on dealer lots for $23,000, exercising the buyout captures $3,750 in instant equity and waives the disposition and excess-mileage fees.
In roughly 40 US states, lessees only pay sales tax on each monthly lease payment rather than the entire vehicle price, saving hundreds of dollars if you switch cars every three years. However, states such as Texas, Virginia, Georgia, and Illinois tax the full vehicle value or total lease depreciation upfront, erasing one of leasing's biggest short-term tax advantages.