Resin Calculator
Calculate epoxy resin quantities for box, cylinder, hemisphere, and sphere molds — or surface coatings.
How to Use This Calculator
Formula:
Total Volume = Geometric Mold or Coat Volume × (1 + Waste%) × Quantity | Part A = Total × [A ÷ (A + B)] | Part B = Total × [B ÷ (A + B)] | 1 US fl oz = 29.5735 mL = 1.80469 in³
- Select Mold Volume (for silicone box, cylinder, dome/hemisphere, or sphere castings) or Surface Coating (for tabletops, bar tops, canvases, and tumbler flood coats) at the top.
- Choose your Dimension Units (cm, in, or mm), pick your epoxy kit's Mix Ratio by volume (1:1, 2:1, 1.5:1, 3:1, 4:1, or Custom), set a 10%–15% Waste / Overage allowance for cup cling, and enter the Number of Molds / Pours.
- In Mold Volume mode, select your Mold Shape and enter interior Length, Width, Height, or Diameter; in Surface Coating mode, input your total Surface Area and target Pour Depth / Thickness.
- Read your exact Total Volume, Part A (Resin), and Part B (Hardener) quantities side by side in both milliliters (mL) and US fluid ounces (oz) so you can pour straight into graduated mixing cups.
Frequently Asked Questions
Unless your bottle explicitly says '1:1 by weight,' nearly all tabletop and craft epoxies rated 1:1 are formulated strictly by volume! Liquid Part A epoxy resin is noticeably denser (~1.13–1.16 g/mL) than Part B amine hardener (~0.95–0.98 g/mL). Pouring 100 grams of each on a kitchen scale actually overdoses hardener by ~18%, resulting in a permanently rubbery, sticky cure that never hardens.
A standard 1/8-inch (0.125 in / 3.18 mm) self-leveling tabletop flood coat requires exactly 18 cubic inches of epoxy per square foot (12 in × 12 in × 0.125 in). Since 1 US fluid ounce equals 1.80469 cubic inches, 18 ÷ 1.80469 equals 9.97 fl oz—meaning 10 fl oz (296 mL) per square foot before waste, or 11 to 12 fl oz/sq ft including drips, plus 3 fl oz/sq ft for a thin seal coat.
Epoxy cures via an exothermic (heat-releasing) chemical reaction. Fast-reacting 1:1 tabletop and art resins are engineered for thin 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch layers where heat escapes across wide surface area. Pouring 1:1 resin 1.5 to 2 inches deep traps intense internal heat above 250°F (120°C), causing thermal runaway ('flash cure')—boiling bubbles, amber yellowing, shrinkage cracks, and warped molds. Use slow-curing 2:1 or 3:1 deep-pour casting resin instead.
High-viscosity epoxy clings to the walls and bottom corners of silicone mixing cups, stir sticks, and spreader notches, and self-leveling tabletop flood coats intentionally drip over live-edge sides to encapsulate edges evenly. Adding 10% overage on medium pours (and 15%–20% on tiny 30 mL jewelry molds) prevents running half an ounce short mid-pour and leaving a visible low dimple.
Set the empty, dry irregular silicone mold on a zeroed digital gram scale and fill it to the brim with plain tap water. Because pure water has a density of 1.00 gram per milliliter (1 g = 1 mL = 1 cm³), a mold holding 185 grams of water has an exact internal volume of 185 mL. Dry the mold thoroughly—moisture clouds epoxy—and enter 185 mL under 'Custom' mold shape.
Maintain a steady, dust-free studio temperature between 72°F and 78°F (22°C–25°C) with relative humidity below 55% for the first 24 hours. Below 68°F (20°C), Part A thickens like cold honey, trapping thousands of micro-bubbles and risking chalky amine blush on the surface. Warm unopened resin bottles in an 85°F water bath for 10 minutes before measuring (keeping water strictly out of caps) for crystal-clear flow.